Sunday, 29 November 2009

4 days out of 9 climbing with Martin Kocsis

Day 1 - 7th Aug - The plan was to go to John Henry Quarry, and we needed some action photos for the new guidebook, but the persistent overnight rain changed plans, and we went to New Mills Tor first, and did one route, 'Alcove Crack' (HVS 5a) and a photo of me on that will proberbly be in the guide. Next, we stop at 'The Gherkin' cafe in New Mills, both mine and Catherine's stuff was kindly paid for by Martin (on BMC expenses...). Next we go to John Henry, and Catherine also get a guidebook photo, with the ascent of 'Crikey Crack' a 2 star VS 4c. Finally, we head to Hobson Moor Quarry, where i repeat my new route in the previous post (what to do on a wet sunday afternoon?) for martin's camera, and guidebook.

Day 2- The day start with Martin and Penny picking me up and driving through the cultural heritage centre of 'StayleyVegas' on the way to Rob's Rocks, in the Chew Valley. We slowly slog up the hill, and climb one route at Rob's Rocks itself, 'Nameless one' (VS 4b). It was all going smoothly until Martin told me to stop climbing, and wait for the sun, and a better photo. "the sun is moving up the valley" "Almost here" and all that ensued. When the sun finally arrived, martin said, "oh, Drat, the wall you are on is in the shade..." All this time I'd been getting pumped, but i finished the route eventually. We then moved along the skyline, to a lone route called 'The Vanessahole' (VS 4b) which is steep, but has good gear and good moves, all went well, but an imaginative belay was necessary, opposing slings tied together...worrying! we then walked down, and drove to Rick Gibbon's house for a brew and cake. After that, the group of now four of us, went to Far Black Clough and did one route of HVS 5a standard.

Day 3 - An epic on Kinder south, which involved 2 and a half hours of sitting under a roof at 'The Pagoda' watching the mist roll in and clear again, and rain falling, fun times. We finally got one route done and walked down to the pub to eat chips and stuff on yet more BMC expenses.

Day 4 - Off we went to Crowden Great Quarry, up the steep hill from the youth hostel, I did one route. 'The Ghost of david Beckham' (VS 5a) on the opposite side of the quarry to the 35m wall, is a shabby little buttress with one 10m splitting crackline, this is where the route goes, and it was surprisingly good, with a beached whale style top-out.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

This Martin Kocsis guy sounds like a god (Ganesh). At least you enjoyed StaleyVegas and managed cake most days.